Downtown Derry-Londonderry

SDSpivey

We really haven’t spent much time in any cities since Dublin, and there wasn’t much to see around anyway, so we walked down, across the bridge to the city walls. Derry has one of the few double decker bridges in Europe and has the only remaining “full” city walls, they were never breached.

Derry is a city full of past trouble. It is the battle ground between the Irish Nationalists (for a free Ireland) and the Unionists (loyalist to the UK crown). Even the name of the city is rife with difficulty. The legal name is “Londonderry”, but it has long been called just “Derry” also.

The city was even a center to the turbulent times referred to simply as “The Troubles.” This was a time of terrorist tactics of shootings and bombings of public places, starting in the 1960’s and having deaths as late as 2002.

We ambled along, enjoying the sights, nothing really new or noteworthy, but enjoyable. Until mom spotted a Hop-On bus sign. Wait a minute, I bought tickets for the Derry Hop-On bus before we left, Unfortunately, the bus here only makes one round per hour, so we had to wait 30-40 minutes.

We took the whole tour, coming back to where we started, mainly because the driver never stopped at the places he was supposed to stop. Also, nothing looked interesting enough to stop at.

It was just a mile to the house, so we went across the Peace Bridge and walked down the street.

Ready for a nap.

Footsteps of giants

SDSpivey

We started off going to Dunluce castle, but just before getting there, there was a large pull off area. What the heck, let’s stop and see what is there.

Not much really, but it was pretty. It was also very cold and windy. The only benefit was that we could just make out Scotland on the horizon, just the Isle of Islay. We could just make out the Dunluce ruins from there as well.

We drove around the corner to the Dunluce, but they wanted too much admission for such a small place.

Next up, the Giant’s Causeway. Not much to say about that directly, except they are mostly long hexagonal, pencil-shaped rocks, that formed as the lava cooled.

There was a long downhill walk to get to the rocks on the shore. The cold wind was biting. Once down to the formations, the wind mostly was blocked by the surrounding mountains.

There is a walkway cut through the formations, to allow access to the next “beach”. There are many coins jammed into the cracks in the rock, like a wishing well. Many of the coins had corroded from the salt and now are pushing the stones apart.

About 45 minutes into our trip to the Beaghmore Stone Circles, we realized that we had missed the Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge. Oh, well, maybe we can still see it later.

We reached the circles and listened, there was silence. The sign stated it was the darkest sky in Northern Ireland, which probably means the furthest from any city.

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Donegal

SDSpivey

We packed up and left the freezing cottage this morning. They only seem to run the boiler for a few hours at a time, so the place never gets “warm”

We stopped off in the city of Donegal, at the Donegal Castle. It was more of what we would think of as a house, but it did have a wall around it. We arrived a bit early, they weren’t open yet, so we had to stand in the drizzle. Can’t complain much, the weather has been mostly clear and warm (for Ireland).

Then we went to a home in the National Park, Glenveagh Castle, again, not a castle, just a manor house.

On the way, the terrain changed dramatically. We were on a road with a bit of greenery next to it, but everything else we could see was brown and “dead”. Probably just hibernating.

Glenveagh went through several owners throughout the years, including 2 different Americans, who became the Earl of the house.

I was following the Google directions, but we were on the wrong road. Actually, it wasn’t a road, it was the bus path to the castle. I saw a bus coming, so I backed up a few dozen feet to a wider spot, so they could pass. The driver stopped and informed us we were going down the wrong path and redirected us to the car park. Turns out I was was almost there.

We had a long wait for the house tour, so we spent time walking around the gardens, still in the drizzle. There was a large group of 12-14 year old girls, obviously on a field trip. Fortunately, they were not part of our house tour, but there was a bus tour group that was, so it was a bit crowded.

There is a watch tower on the coast, almost straight north from Glenveagh, the Horn Head. I have no idea why it is called that, but it was cold and windy.

There was a small stone “hut” where the sentry would stand out of the wind and rain, while searching for invading ships.

I was uncertain if the car was going to make it up the steep road.

We stopped off in the nearby town at a cafe for lunch. I decided to try the Sprite. They have Fanta orange, but it is more like Tang. The Sprite wasn’t labeled at diet, but it had no sugar. I kind of feel sorry for a diabetic who comes to the US and drinks a regular Sprite, they would spike their blood sugars.

We tried to see another castle, but we arrived just before 5 and the gates were already closed. Bummer.

We then headed for our new “home”, well home for at least for a few days, in Derry/Londonderry. There is an ongoing dispute what the name of the city is or should be. Check Wikipedia for an interesting tale.

The place we are staying is at the very top of a very steep hill. Think San Francisco streets and multiply by 2. The roadway is too narrow to turn around, so I have to back down into traffic, no big deal.

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More caves and gardens

SDSpivey

We set out for the Marble Arch caves, just across the border in Northern Ireland. We were about half way when Mom realized she didn’t bring her British pounds, all we had were Euros, but they did accept credit cards, so no problem.

This cave system had an entrance that was a lot less steep than the Mitchelstown caves.

After a short walk, 6-7 minutes, stopping to view interesting formations and get history, we arrived at the end of the area we could walk. The cave is normally flooded, so we climb into boats and continue our tour, in style. At least as much style as one can have in the dark, while being dripped on by water soaking through the rock, and ducking our heads to miss low hanging ridges.

Alas, our ride wasn’t for the whole trek, we had to dock and continue on foot, like peasants.

There was a short segment that had no handrails or walls beside us, just water flowing on both sides of us. It was kind of strange, knowing that if the water level increased just a touch, we’d be walking in the water.

The guide would stop and allow everyone to reassemble. At one of these stops, I was looking down at a small “valley” and was just thinking about taking a picture, when it rippled. It wasn’t a valley at all. I was looking at the reflection of the ceiling in the very still water.

At this point, the guide explained that originally they would have to end the tour here, the roof was too low to allow another boat crossing. But some smart dude had the idea of splitting the sea like Moses. There was a walkway with short walls on each side that held back the water, allowing us to continue walking.

After completing the tour, we climbed stairs through what looked like a WWII steel bunker tunnel. At the top, we waited for remainder of the group, then passed through another door, only to find 150 more stairs on the outside to climb. Mom was winded, but so was I.

There was absolutely no cell signal there, but I did know that our next destination was just a few minutes down the road, no map needed.

We were at Florencecourt, a still functioning farm manor house. We bought our ticket for the next tour, but it was an hour and a half wait, so we strolled around the gardens and had a bite in the cafe.

Many of the building were no longer needed, like the carpenter shop, laundry, or the saw mill, and were converted into small museum sites. Part of the tour took us into the original kitchen and servant’s duty rooms. It really did feel like Downton Abbey.

Originally, the plan was to go to an abbey, but after buying the tour tickets, I realized that this tour would not be over soon enough for us to drive to the abbey before the last entry. Instead, we found another museum nearby, the Enniskillen Castle Museum. A museum about castles? We weren’t sure what it was about, but we’ve seen so much Irish history, but really haven’t learned anything about current Ireland. Turns out it is a museum inside what was a garrison, not what we would think of as a castle.

It was only 25 minutes before closing so the clerk didn’t charge us, but we didn’t have a lot of time to see it all. It turned out it was a tribute to the local soldiers in WWI, WWII, and the Napoleonic war. History, but at least more recent history.

Glencar and entering the UK

SDSpivey

We stopped off at a small water fall this morning, Glencar Falls. It is only 50 feet or so high, but the largest we’ve seen so far.

I spoke with someone there about if there is any path to drive up the mountain. He didn’t really give me an answer, but he did tell me about trees that were planted on the mountainside, with the light and dark trees forming a Celtic knot. I’m not sure if it is true, I didn’t see it.

Then we headed for the Organic Center, where they teach about responsible gardening and soil management. It mostly looked like any Lowes or Home Depot garden center, even most of the plants would be the same.

We jumped over the border into Northern Ireland, just for the heck of it. There was barely even a sign letting you know, definitely no crossing guards.

Driving around aimlessly, I stopped at a stop sign (because you’re supposed to) and suddenly noticed an old castle right next to me.

I found parking right there and we walked up. A sign on the castle gates stated we needed to enter through the cafe. There were several signs stating that the cafe was now open, but the cafe operators obviously did not read them, their door was locked.

We made a very quick stop at the Sligo Abbey ruins, in downtown Sligo, before going back to the Aldi to get some things we needed, like dish soap and salt, things that should have already been here.

Onto to Sligo

SDSpivey

I was tired yesterday, going to bed at 8:30, without the sun going all the way down yet. But we did arise early enough to get a fresh start on the nearly 4 hour drive.

There was really nothing en route for us to stop and see. We arrived in Sligo (pronounced sly-go) about 1:30, and weren’t supposed to check in until 4, so we detoured and followed signs for Parke’s Castle.

It is a small 3 story 17th century castle, right next to large Lough (Irish for lake) Gill, surrounded by mountains. Totally worth the admission price, well, it was free since the courtyard was under renovation, still enjoyable.

There was a small “lay-by” beside Colgagh Lough where we pulled off the road and took a few pics of the view.

We still had plenty of time to kill, so we tried to find the Sligo Gaol, but it seems to now be just another government complex, with bars on the windows, at least the employees can’t escape.

Hungry, we tried to find a quick bite, but there wasn’t any parking along our route, until there was a Texaco station with a restaurant inside. Semi cafeteria style, where you tell the lady what you want, and she puts it on the plate. Wasn’t bad, but wasn’t great either.

We went ahead and drove to the AirBnB and I crashed out for 2 hours. When I arose, mom was sitting in a chair, also crashed. Perhaps this is going to be a lazy evening for us.

Cliffs of Moher

SDSpivey

We went to the Knappogue Castle, but there didn’t seem to be anyone around.

Google said they were open daily at 10, it was almost 11.

Mom found later that they are not open to the public. That is lame. If you don’t want me in, shut your gate and don’t put up signs that encourage me to come.

We headed to the Cliffs of Moher, on the west coast of the island.

It was very beautiful, vibrant green grass with yellow dandelions, deep azure blue water, and pure white waves breaking against the rocks below.

But, it was cold, around 50° and the wind was blowing hard, since there was nothing at sea to slow it down. It had rained as we drove, but the sky cleared and the sun helped warm it just a touch.

We had to climb the walkways to the top-most point, several hundred feet above the car park, huffing and puffing, with small kids just bounding past us as if gravity worked oppositely for them.

Then we had to come down and go up the other side. I specifically chose that order, because there is a watch tower on the second summit. If we had gone there first, Mom wouldn’t have wanted to go up the “plain” side.

A small plane flew past a couple times, we were higher than the plane. Ridiculous.

Somehow, Mom always has stamina to still go through the gift shops, despite all of them having the same crap, … um, I mean they have quality merchandise, chosen specifically for each site.

Highs and Lows

SDSpivey

The Rock of Cashel is an 12th century church, built upon a large rock outcropping, high above the surrounding area.

We started out towards the Rock of Cashel, but I’ve had problems with Google maps directions not working properly. This was the case this morning. I headed in the general direction, with the hopes that it would work a bit later.

30 minutes later, still no directions. I turned onto a semi-important looking road, since I knew we’d have to go that way, but wasn’t the right one. Fortune did smile down though. I spotted a reasonably nice looking castle just off the road. It looked like someones home, but there was a sign that said open, so I pulled in. The sign said it was Farney Castle.

We rang the bell and an older gentleman, Cyril Cullen, came to the door with a big smile. He invited us in for a tour of the house, starting off in his gift shop, where everything was made by himself.

Lots of porcelain figurines and statuettes lined the shelves. Most were superb quality.

Then he led us into the next room, filled with wool sweaters, caps, blankets, etc.

Rule number 1: never buy something that you are going to have to carry.

They were not pushy at all, allowing us to browse, while they would tell us about each piece. Many of his designs were worn in adverts and by models.

He even donated an inauguration dress to a family friend, Jackie Kennedy.

The walls in the round tower were over ten feet thick at the base, wide enough to hide a staircase inside.

There were many artifacts from the castle’s history, as well as his own. This was the best preserved old building we’ve seen so far. If only they allowed pictures inside the house, but it was their actual home.

After the tour, we were once again in the gift shop. We browsed some more. There were so many items I would like to get, but no possible way of them surviving the trip home in my suitcase without breaking. We did get a couple small figurines that looked sturdy enough.

Now we have been to Blarney, Killarney, and Farney.

I reloaded the maps, and they were working, so we continued to the Rock of Cashel, still about 20 minutes away.

I rounded a curve and it was visible in the distance, sitting high.

The church is under restoration, but the grounds are beautiful. The views around weren’t too bad either.

I think it would have made a better spot for a castle or fortress than a church, but for some reason they didn’t wait the 8 centuries to ask me.

We really were not looking forward to climbing into a dark, wet, cold cave, but we were close by and Mom’s maiden name is Mitchell, so we had to go to Mitchelstown.

On the M8 motorway, I saw a info sign for a castle in Cahir, so we diverted. The rain had stopped, for a bit, at least.

Unlike many castles, so far, it was right in the middle of the village of Cahir, with houses and shops within 100 feet or so, we had to park in a grocery parking lot.

It was very well preserved or restored, but it was just a museum piece, no one lived in it.

Many (all) of the roads here are narrow and have walls or hedges nearly right next to them, but the road to the Mitchelstown Caves was the smallest, almost wide enough for an American SUV, but intended for two cars to pass. Yikes!

The entrance was unimpressive, just looked like a concrete stairway to someone’s basement. Upon actually going down these stair, they quickly became steeper (and wetter), taking us down over 300 feet. The caves travel over 3 kilometers, probably more, they have not yet been explored fully, even after nearly 100 years.

The guide pointed out interesting formations, many that kids had named, and get a history and information about the cave system.

They occasionally have concerts or movie nights in the cave. Once they had a sushi chef prepare and serve a meal in one large room.

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Muckross and Castle Ross

SDSpivey

Another rainy morning finds us on a 2 hour drive to Muckross Manor House and Castle Ross, in Killarney, County Kerry.

This finishes off the southern half of the island. We have visited 13 of the 33 counties, with at least 12 more definite, in just over a week.

Once in Killarney, we arrived at the Castle Ross and walked up the hill to it. Everything on this island is uphill.

All tours are by guide, and the next available wasn’t for about 2 hours, so we browsed around outside and then decided to head over to the Muckross house until the tour was ready.

At the Muckross house, there was a tour shortly available, but we already paid for the other. We would have to jump back and forth. Oh well.

We walked the gardens for a bit before heading for the castle tour.

They didn’t allow photos inside the castle, but I took one quick one at the end. What where they going to do? Throw us out, we were leaving anyway.

It sucks a bit, this was the first castle that had decent windows for lighting, but couldn’t take photos. Plus it was really nice inside.

Going back to Muckross, we find that they were sold out of tours for the day. With the rain picking up again, we called it quits for the day, not arriving back until almost 8pm.

Long day for so little done.

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Just a bunch of Blarney

SDSpivey

We went down to Cork, to the Blarney castle, home of the blarney stone.

It was rainy all the way down, worrying us about being too wet to spend the time out side.

Just inside the park, I saw a sign stating that they were employing anti-drone technology. Strangely, I haven’t yet heard of any, barring that of shooting a net over it as it flies low enough.

You have to walk over a short bridge that crosses two rivers at once. More remarkable, the rivers cross themselves, one goes through a tunnel under the other.

After entering the castle and starting the 100 step climb, I noticed that the walls are around 8 feet thick. The inner walls weren’t that thick, but you wouldn’t have to worry about noisy people in the next room.

There were small rooms off the spiral stairway, so we could make short breaks from the long climb. None of the rooms in the castle had privacy (or windows to close). Even the lord and lady would have slept in a communal room.

There were two “garderobes”, small rooms where you did your “business.” Yes, in front of whoever also happened to be there. It was the place where you would “guard your robes.” The ammonia flumes would kill fleas.

We made it up to the tippy top of the castle, wind blowing strong. there are slots running the battlements, where you would drop stones or shoot arrows down upon invaders at the bottom. Even with steel bars running across, you feel as if you’d fall through. I managed to crawl up and stand on the battlement to take a photo. It was only knee high, but extremely hard to do, without anything to help you balance, and a very long view of the ground below. I tell myself I was mostly scared to drop my ipad, even with the best case, it wouldn’t make it.

Watching others get out and kiss the stone, we realized that our backs really wouldn’t bend that well. Especially after all the walking we’ve been doing.

Plus, who wants to put their lips on something that thousands have already put theirs on. Eww.

The park is large, with plenty of flowers and trees. What caught my attention was the Poison Garden. There are lots of poisonous plants like hemlock, wisteria, and poison ivy, but many I didn’y know that were poisonous, like rhubarb and rosemary… wait, we just ate both of those things this week. Ah, good bye sweet world.

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